It's got a captive audience and coincidentally it has ... And I didn't put these in, but it has these two enormous windows on either side of the entrance that open all the way up and create basically this counter. The real news should come first. But to launch right into it at the outset would be, as they say in the journalism trade, to bury the lede. By 1995 he was putting his newly acquired skills to the test in a little Neapolitan-style bread shop he opened on Monmouth Street in downtown Red Bank. Up to his elbows in flour and dough, he rattled off a string of ideas to showcase the iconic flavors and traditions of the Jersey Shore in the new location. I hear you. "I never really wanted to leave," he said. I mean, everybody is having to do this right now, but you've obviously had to let go the people in the New York City location, and you're down to a lean staff of just you and your partner basically in New Jersey. He just finished scouting a location around the corner, which would have deposited Una Pizza Napoletana approximately 2.5 miles from my front door. It was during this upheaval that Mangieri got serious about returning to New Jersey. What I want to know in the New Jersey location is did you have to build anything like an e-commerce part of your site so that people can order? It was Clurfeld who, several years later, persuaded a dubious Ed Levine, a leading pizza authority and friend who served with her on the Restaurant and Chef Awards Committee of the prestigious James Beard Awards, to take a North Jersey Coast train down to Point Pleasant Beach shortly before his book “Pizza: A Slice of Heaven” was set to go to press. Let's be honest. Anthony Mangieri grew up in an Italian-American family in Beachwood, just south of Toms River. I think many people in New York City are going to be pretty close to disaster if not already within a week of this happening last week. We're going to reopen." I hope this thing somehow works itself out. I mean I have enough backup that I can get through, but it's going to run lean. New. “But, you know, everywhere I’ve been I am always proud to say that I am from New Jersey. But now, because of the coronavirus, the New York restaurant is on hiatus, while the New Jersey one is defying the brand’s heritage as a dine-in shop, instead keeping the lights on as a takeout establishment. It's not what I like. I'm not stopping them, because I would like to make some myself, not for nothing. The funny thing about Mangieri’s uncompromising approach was that it looked, from the outside, an awful lot like a sure path to ruin. In 2017, before Mangieri's return from the West Coast, Wells set off a tsumani in the pizza world when he dubbed Richer's free-spirited, Jersey-sourced pies "New York's best pizza.". Rents are too high commercially and residentially. I mean the people down there are really pumped on us doing this and being there and having a place for people to go pick something up to bring home and eat. That's it. In walked Andrea Clurfeld, then the food editor and restaurant critic for the Asbury Park Press. When Andrea Clurfeld of the Asbury Park Press reviewed a small Jersey Shore restaurant in 1997, she used the type of exuberant yet technical language one … Fritz Nelson: It is scary. Like, tough. NJ LOCATION: Open for take away/pick up. After shuttering it later that year, Mangieri quickly pivoted to pizza, borrowing money from his family to open Una Pizza Napoletana along Route 35 in Point Pleasant Beach, a block from the ocean. Una Pizza Napoletana is unlike any other pizzeria in NYC and that's due to owner Anthony Mangieri's tireless pursuit of perfection and devotion to Naples-style pizza. Are you getting the inventory you need to make the pizzas the way you like to? You know what I mean? Mona's Cottage is located in Berwick-Upon-Tweed, 4.2 km from The Maltings Theatre & Cinema, and provides a patio, garden, and free WiFi. And so I don't want to say one way or the other. That fallback loomed as a real possibility one particularly bleak day in the winter of ‘96. And hopefully, we can get through it and reopen and have a place to have people come back to. I mean, you have a very distinct and carefully crafted network of suppliers. But so far, what I'm seeing is like bits and pieces of things. “(E)ven though I go to fairly serious lengths to get good bread, I never had bread in this country that stopped me dead in my tracks,” she wrote. I would say like an act of God in a sense where it's like out of your hands. Pizza prodigy Anthony Mangieri is returning to his roots on the Jersey Shore. The latest iteration of his famed Una Pizza Napoletana, which had its genesis in a Point Pleasant Beach strip mall in the late 1990s, could be ready to open in downtown Atlantic Highlands before the end of the summer, Mangieri said. Now, it's not an option really unless you were to do to-go only. And the cool thing with that spot is that I can easily do it down there by myself, so I'm basically doing it with myself and my friend that I opened it with and one other person that was local that's coming in and just handing the pizzas to the customers, and that's pretty much it. The creators of nearby Wildair and Contra, they augmented Mangieri's tried-and-true pizza lineup with an ambitious menu of chic appetizers, desserts and natural wine. And it looks like we made it for this thing. “He just shook his head and said, “I’ve got to get him in the book,” Clurfeld recalls. Still, it remains open, and every week, you will find Mangieri sleeping on a floor nearby. We're not going to the East Coast, they informed him, we're going through the Panama Canal. And that's pretty much been my very unprofessional approach to this situation. "My plan was always to end up back in New Jersey and do what I love in the place that I love. In his early teens, Mangieri developed a passion for the ancient baking and pizza-making traditions of Naples, Italy, the region where his maternal forebears are from. Mission accomplished. He's the owner of Una Pizza Napoletana, which is a beloved and well known pizza restaurant in New York City's Lower East Side. So, we're doing it bare bones. That’s a tricky proposition for any restaurant that serves cuisine made from ingredients that perform best in a carefully controlled environment that depends on a certain level of predictability. I paid a few things that were necessary. So, you closed the New York City one. As someone who still makes all his dough each morning and virtually every pie that comes out of Una Pizza Napoletana's glistening, tiled oven, splitting his time between two sites in different states poses a steep challenge. As Wells later observed in the Times, “You would have better luck persuading the driver of the M5 bus to pop a wheelie on Fifth Avenue.”, Plus, Maisner recalls, he was charging like 13 bucks for a 12-inch pie back then — a relative bargain compared to the $25 he'd later command in New York (“THAT’S A LOT OF DOUGH!” splurted a headline in the New York Post.). What were the first thoughts that went through your mind? "It's more like surfing, right? Don't worry, Jersey. More: 20 new restaurants at the Jersey Shore. It's that ability to stand up and just deal with what comes your way and ride that wave to the left or the right," is how Richer explains it. And sadly, that also leads to not being able to run cool restaurants and be able to go make the kind of food and present the kind of things you want because you go in and you're under so much pressure and you're under such pressure with the rent that it becomes sink or swim pretty much before you even open the doors to start with. I mean it makes you tough I guess, but I'm willing to do whatever I’ve got to do to get by. Again, I don't know what small people like me can really do. He did, somehow, and it sent Mangieri's star rising. Tony Mangieri: Yeah. Regulars like Bernard Maisner, now a close friend, used to cringe when they’d overhear a new customer request pepperoni or sausage on their pie. I imagine too, what are they going to put in these spaces? I'm making all the pizza.". (Among other changes, the prices were tweaked downward, to between $19 and $26 per pie.). I mean it's pretty locked down here. I've been looking at some. Though both use wood-fired ovens, their pizzas belong to distinct genres. Or was that already there? A native of Matawan and a Rutgers grad, Richer is the celebrated chef-owner of Razza, an American artisanal pizzeria in Jersey City. Mangieri had plans to open it up for on-site dining this fall, but current pandemic-related restrictions have delayed that. What are the things that you start to think about in terms of cash flow and what you can ... Costs that you can mitigate, put off and so on? "I plan on making every pizza that's served there, so that kind of tells you where I'm going to end up," he said. Okay. Are they doing okay? We've been relatively busy. “I would start working at like 10 o'clock at night and I would work until two or three in the afternoon the next day.”. He is opening a new restaurant in Atlantic Highlands. For us, we definitely are a sit-down restaurant. I still don't know what's true, what isn't. Not just any baking. For me too personally, also companies that I don't need to sign a long-term contract with because I don't want to necessarily be locked in to this kind of a platform where I'm going to do online ordering and this and that, all these other things that I normally wouldn't do and I don't plan to do once we get back to normal. Mangieri’s idea was to hew with religious fervor to the same techniques and standards that Neapolitan bakers had passed on for centuries, making all the dough by hand with the best and most authentic ingredients he could find, baking his breads and rolls in a wood-fired oven as hot as Mount Vesuvius. How a skateboard-crazy, tattoo-wearing, punk rock-loving kid from Beachwood grew up to become one of the world’s most acclaimed pizza chefs is a fascinating and improbable story. If it goes until May, June, July, whenever, people might start making some life decisions when they come out the other end of this that are going to change your workforce. I mean, I just think a lot of landlords in New York city from my impression over the years just raise these prices up on commercial space so that they can keep remortgaging their buildings. But people down there have been really beautiful on supporting it. I'm not informed enough to know which one I would say to follow and the chase down. "As soon as you walk through the front door, you can smell the difference," he says. Well, that's fantastic. And then at that point I was like, "All right, there's no money coming in. Fritz Nelson: I was listening to a podcast with the owner of Misi and Lilia, and they were talking about Missy Robbins. There's the Restaurant Workers' Community Foundation. It's just not my way. Home on UNA PIZZA NAPOLETANA. Richer says no one he knows has mastered the nuances of dough-making better than Mangieri. Tony Mangieri: Yeah. Tony Mangieri: Yeah. And that's just another dynamic that our restaurant isn't really equipped to handle. Tony Mangieri: Yeah. So, this is just taking that into full ... And for me, luckily, I've always been involved in the cooking and the baking and the hands-on operation even when the place was at its best in the Lower East Side. We're essentially out of business, but we still have a location. Tony Mangieri: Yeah. I mean, honestly, not much. I don't know for everybody, but I know myself and other people that I know personally. Let's go down the business route a little bit more. You can either say, "All right, I want my rent or I'm throwing you out. Pizza prodigy Anthony Mangieri is returning to his roots on the Jersey Shore. I know some people are trying to create like this virtual tip jar and all these kinds of things, but I mean, the numbers on those things from what I hear from people that are doing them is so small. “It’s a small town. It's almost going to be like starting in some ways for a lot of people. Neapolitan pizza is the most recognized in the world, but many get it wrong, so I’ve enlisted world champion pizza maker, Johnny Di Francesco to teach us his secrets to making the finest pizza dough. They don't know really where it can go. I think there’s benefit to always staying pretty deeply entrenched in the day-to-day of the restaurant. The morning the column published, Mangieri had 30 customers waiting outside his door when he opened the bakery. "One year, 10, 20, whatever it's going to be, it's going to come full circle.". There's no salary then. He often uses classic Caputo flour, but says that he doesn't think the flour is as good as it used to be ("I feel it used to have more elasticity and pop and used to have more flavor.") Lower Manhattan. There's things for your workers. A subsequent shakeup among the partners placed Mangieri back at the helm. Throughout his flour experiments, he'… El Mona's Cottage se encuentra en Berwick-upon-Tweed, a 4,2 km del teatro y cine Maltings, y ofrece patio, jardín y conexión WiFi gratuita. What advice do you have for people in kind of managing through that situation? I think what's going to be tough on the back end of this whole scenario is that ... And not only for me, but for all these restaurants is that when this thing ends ... And let's say it ends tomorrow, it's not going to be so easy to just be like, "Okay, tomorrow we can go back to real life. Tony Mangieri: Right. We never have. I mean at the same time, I mean if there's something that becomes legitimately available to make it be where the restaurant could be in a safe place, then I would do that. "I'm so pumped to just go back and say, 'If you want my pizza, this is where I'm at,'" he said. His mother, Cathy, who died three years after her husband, worked as a deputy clerk of the Ocean County Board of Chosen Freeholders for more than 20 years. Thankfully, the maestro is back, and has enlisted Jeremiah Stone and Fabian Von Hauske of Contra and Wildair for the wine, apps, and dessert. Which brings us, by a circuitous and not particularly well-paved route, to Anthony Mangieri of Una Pizza Napoletana. "One thing about his pizza," says his friend and fellow tattoo enthusiast Robert Leecock of Red Bank, "as soon as you bite into it, it really does bring me back to Point Pleasant.". I'm more of an independent kind of a person. An avid mountain biker fond of the rolling hills of nearby Huber Woods Park, he says he's been eyeing Atlantic Highlands for years. Even when we're open running normal business, we just don't have a to-go business. A kindred spirit, in the late ‘90s she was getting blowback herself for championing the then-nascent food revolution in a touristy part of the state where Clams Casino was still revered as haute cuisine. So, are your lease holders being flexible? I'm not sure really. The dedication and diligence owner Anthony Mangieri has put into his craft during the past couple of decades has earned him and his restaurant a loyal following and rave reviews, including being called “the finest sit-down pizza in all five boroughs” by The New York Times’s prickly, well-known food critic, Peter Wells. It won't be easy; nothing in the restaurant business ever is. In 2020 America, festooning a pizza pie with pepperoni isn’t an inherently radical act — unless you’re Anthony Mangieri, owner of Una Pizza Napoletana. And I was like, "Oh my gosh, this is perfect." This time he awarded the restaurant two stars, calling it "the finest sit-down pizzeria in the five boroughs. So, in a situation like this, I thought to myself, "What's the options here?" Is there anything you're finding in that regard yet? And I'm not hinting at some kind of unchecked aggro that leaches from his pores and stains the room — maybe his waiters get a taste of that kind of anger, but the guy I interviewed after seemed sweet-tempered and open. Alas, the same property owner also had a location in SoMa, and this allowed Mangieri to live across the Golden Gate Bridge in Marin County, apparently a bigger lure for a ravenous mountain biker. He limited his offerings to just four pizzas, made with the finest tomatoes, basil, mozzarella cheese, olive oil and other basic ingredients he could lay his hands on. And the neighborhood itself down there is a pretty quiet area as far as residential. UNA PIZZA NAPOLETANA: Last Applicant/Owner: Mangieri, Anthony 175 Orchard Street New York, NY 10002 : Serial Number: 90314942: Filing Date: November 12, 2020: Status: New Application - Record Initialized Not Assigned To Examiner: Status Date: November 16, 2020 Before Mangieri left, another longtime friend, Brett Beach, of Middletown, predicted his eventual return. Things are still kind of up in the air. I was trying to figure out what to do with both locations. I actually put my mind and heart in the thought that there's going to be this bailout that's going to save the day for me personally. Within the stark walls of … Fritz Nelson: Sure. And again, like many of these companies that offer these platforms are being marked right now, and it's really, really busy. I don't think people even associate that location with to-go. Una dintre alegerile noastre de top din Berwick-Upon-Tweed. Pizzeria Mozza is owned and operated by Nancy Silverton and Joe Bastianich. No, it wasn't. In the New York City location, what have you heard from customers? I mean I would say the smaller guys that I deal with are kind of not working right now also. ", Critics awed by Mangieri’s “textbook perfect,” “peak” and “hypnotic” pizza mention him in the same breath as Thomas Keller, Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Daniel Boulud. He called it the Sant Arsenio Bakery, an homage to the town where many of his relatives live. Mangieri's routine begins when he comes to the restaurant every morning, usually alone, sometimes accompanied by his wife and infant daughter. More: Atlantic Highlands OKs million-dollar waterfront homes plan; opposition 'disappointed'. And honestly, I know this might sound silly in this time of crisis, but I'm also still concerned about the quality of the pizza. Dining in is usually a critical part of the Una Pizza experience; now, it's takeout-only. So, that again is a whole new business model I think for myself and many restaurants that are even, I would say, tend towards being classified almost as fine dining. I think many of us were scrambling to find some kind of way to get through this. Now it's Jersey's turn again to enjoy the fruits of his labor. So a year ago he returned to New York. I'm not referring to the Una Pizza Napoletana owner's tattoos, which spread in from his knuckles to only-his-wife-knows. Una Pizza Napoletana has made its rounds. In his review Wells confesses to be "unnerved" by a "rumor that Mr. Mangieri was thinking of leaving the city and taking his pizza with him." More importantly, people are just pumped on it. I made the decision on a Sunday night. “I literally never had 30 customers in one day,” he said. It's like you're at the counter, you can see the oven. You know what I mean? There's no income. You know what I mean? 91 1st Ave, Atlantic Highlands, NJ 07716 These windows are on a hydraulic and I can just open one up, it's totally safe, no one can come into the restaurant, everyone can keep their distance. Nearby Pizzerias on Slice. I mean, especially if they're saying that the shutdown might go until mid-May, June. The dedication and diligence owner Anthony Mangieri has put into his craft during the past couple of decades has earned him and his … And for those of you who want the full download on the history, you can listen to our podcast on Grow Wire. Has anything changed with your suppliers? So, anyone that's doing this for real and does this for a living and it's not a side project already kind of has their head in this mode on an anormal day-to-day existence of what can be paid, what can't be paid, which vendors let things slide longer than 30 days. In my brief time as a San Francisco resident, Una Pizza Napoletana has been something of a lifeline for me. “Those in the know are freaking out about it.”. I mean, I don't know. But other than that, for me and for Una Pizza, I would say no. Almost starting a whole new business. In a highly unusual move, the Times' Wells re-reviewed Una Pizza Napoletana less than a year after taking it to the woodshed. And the New Jersey location, it's in a small town. Una Pizza Napoletana, Atlantic Highlands. Or you're going to have to suffer like the rest of us." And when that eventually failed — as Mangieri was sure it would — well, working as a janitor wouldn’t be so bad, he thought. Richer reveres Mangieri and the two are friends. Tony Mangieri: Right. There's no rivalry there. If the government is telling me that I'd be open to make money, then I'm telling you I'm not paying my rent. I mean, obviously we don't make the same kind of money as you do when people sit down and buy a bottle of wine and all that. Fritz Nelson: No. And then during the course of that week, starting on Monday is when things really started going where they were shutting down. "Anthony," he told him, "you know you're going to come back to New Jersey. We have a very streamlined menu and operation, and we've been in business since 1996. So that being said, I'm even monitoring how far we can go with the New Jersey spot, because I just want to maintain our standard even in this moment, even if that sounds silly. Here’s the full transcript of our conversation with Mangieri: Fritz Nelson: We're joined by Tony Mangieri. 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